This is what piqued my interest in UltraClear, a “cold” ablative laser device that launched last year. Deeper skin tones, a predisposition to melasma, and skin conditions like acne can all lead to hit-or-miss results when it comes to certain lasers.

The gist is that aggressive, heat-based devices work great for some, but not for all. “That’s a lot of what youth is: smooth transitions of highlights and convexity, avoiding harsh transitions on the face.” “When you’re attacking that fat, you’re ruining the layer that makes everything look smooth and plush on the face,” he tells. Board-certified plastic surgeon Jason Roostaeian has seen firsthand how the deep delivery of heat can cause scar tissue and deteriorate subcutaneous facial fat that is critical for longevity. The more common complaint about heat-based treatments is that they are quite painful, requiring numbing or laughing gas, and often downtime. We both noticed that the pigment on my face had worsened rather than improved. Celebrity esthetician Celeste Rodrigues once had to help me through months of purging, after my treatment with a radiofrequency microneedling device.

I have personally experienced breakouts of acne, milia, and rebound pigmentation from the delivery of deep heat treatments, making the rewards not worth the risk. But I tend to favor non-heat-based treatments paced over multiple sessions and coupled with regenerative ingredients.

Heat has its time and place at the derm’s office, with treatments like radiofrequency microneedling and skin-tightening ultrasound gaining popularity. My experience with the UltraClear laser.

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